Rioja: The Burgundy of Spain

Rioja: The Burgundy of Spain

If Spain has an iconic appellation, it is undoubtedly La RiojaNot only because it was the first DOCa (Denominación de Origen Calificada, the highest Spanish tier), but because it represents the very essence of Spanish wine: centuries-old tradition, calibrated innovation, absolute respect for the terroir, and a quality-price ratio that puts many French and Italian appellations to shame.

Calling Rioja ‘the Burgundy of Spain’ is more than just a geographical comparison. It is an acknowledgment that here, as in Burgundy, terroir matters more than marketing, history is intertwined with modernity, and every single plot tells a different story

Geography and Territory: Three Riojas in One

Rioja spans approximately 65,000 hectares along the Ebro River in northern Spain, situated between the The Basque Country, Navarra and Castiglia"But simply saying 'Rioja' is an understatement: there are three distinct sub-regions, each with its own unique characteristics.

THE HIGH RIOJA

Position: "North-west of the region, in the higher altitude areas.
Altitude: 400-700 ASL
Terroir: Ferruginous Clay-limestone
Climate: Cooler Atlantic-Continental climate
Typicity of the wine: Elegance, finesse, vibrant acidity, medium body.

The La Rioja Rioja It is the beating heart of the appellation. This is where many of the most prestigious historic wineries are located: Marqués de Riscal, The High Rioja CVNE, Muga, Viña ArdanzaThe wines are crafted for long aging, boasting complex aromas of red fruits, tobacco, spices, and leather. The altitude provides freshness and allows for a slow ripening of the grapes.

The key cities are Haro (the historic capital of Rioja) and Laguardia (a spectacular medieval village).

Typical style: Elegant Tempranillo, featuring brilliant acidity, silky tannins, and a long evolution in the bottle.

RIOJA ALAVESA

Position: North of the region, Basque Country
Altitude: 400-650 ASL
Terroir: Clay-limestone
Climate: Atlantic, with maritime influences
Typicity of the wine: Extreme freshness, floral aromas, medium-light body

The Rioja Alavesa is the smallest but perhaps the most fascinating area. Here, the Atlantic influence is palpable: abundant rainfall, cooler temperatures, and moderate thermal excursions. The wines are floral and fragrant, with a vibrant acidity. Less powerful than those from Rioja Alta, yet incredibly aromatic.

Iconic producers: Marqués de Riscal (Based in the historic site of Elciego) Abel Mendoza, Artadi, Ostatu.

Typical style: Fragrant and floral Tempranillo, with notes of violet and fresh red fruits; less structure but great finesse.

RIOJA ORIENTAL (ex Rioja Baja)

Position: Southeast of the region, towards Navarra
Altitude: 300-500 ASL
Terroir: Ferruginous clay
Climate: Mediterranean, warmer and drier
Typicity of the wine: Power, concentration, full body, higher alcohol

The Rioja Oriental (renamed in 2018 to overcome the negative connotation of 'Baja' = low) is the warmest area. Here, it is not only Tempranillo, but also Garnacha, which finds its ideal environment in the heat. The wines are higher in alcohol, more concentrated, and robust. They are less suited for very long aging compared to La Rioja Rioja, but perfect for those seeking structure and immediacy.

Many wineries use grapes from this area to add body to their blends, while maintaining freshness with grapes from La Rioja Rioja.

Typical style: Powerful Tempranillo, generous Garnacha, with notes of ripe fruit, plum, and chocolate.

The Grape Varieties: Tempranillo and its Supporting Cast

The La Rioja Is dominated by Tempranillo (locally also called Tinto Fino or Cencibel), which accounts for approximately 75% of red grape plantings. However, tradition dictates the use of complementary varieties to add complexity.

TEMPRANILLO (75%)

Role: Structure, elegance, body

Characteristics: Thick skin, medium tannins, excellent acidity

Aromatic profile: Cherry, plum, strawberry; tertiary notes of tobacco, leather, and spices after aging.

GARNACHA (7%)

Role: Alcohol, roundness, smoothness

Characteristics: Sugar-rich grapes, soft tannins

Aromatic profile: Ripe red fruits, sweet spices, jammy notes

GRACIANO (3%)

Role: Acidity, freshness, aging potential

Characteristics: Rare variety, challenging to grow, low yields

Aromatic profile: Black fruits, balsamic notes, liquorice

MAZUELO / CARIÑENA (3%)

Role: Color, tannins, structure

Characteristics: Late ripening, high tannins

Aromatic profile: Dark fruits, earthy notes, rustic

Minority Varieties

Maturana Tinta: Rediscovered indigenous variety, rare

Tempranillo Blanco, Viura, Malvasía, Garnacha Blanca: For the whites (less than 10% of total production)

Winemaking Styles: From Heritage to Contemporary

Over the last thirty years, Rioja has experienced a 'style war' between traditionalists and modernists. Today, fortunately, we are witnessing a balanced synthesis.

Classic / Traditional Style

Characteristics:

Long aging (often exceeding minimum requirements)

Dominant American oak

Notes of vanilla, coconut, dill

Light color, garnet, evolved

Soft drinking, round, velvety mouthfeel

Iconic estates

La Rioja Alta (904, 890)

López de Heredia (Viña Tondonia)

CVNE (Imperial)

Marqués de Murrieta (Castillo Ygay)

When to choose it: If you seek tertiary complexity, evolution, and wines that are ready to drink yet possess decades of potential.

Contemporary Style

Characteristics:

Shorter aging

French oak (or a French-American mix)

Greater fruit concentration

Darker color, intense

Firmer tannic extraction

International profiles (less traditional)

Iconic estates

Remírez de Ganuza

Roda

Artadi (now outside the DO)

When to choose it: If you seek power, fresh fruit, immediate impact, and fewer tertiary notes.

CONTEMPORARY STYLE / SYNTHESIS

Characteristics:

Balance between fruit and aging

Smart use of French and American oak

Respect for tradition with modern techniques

Elegance without sacrificing freshness

Iconic estates

Marqués de Riscal

Muga

Viña Ardanza (La Rioja Alta)

Contino

When to choose it: If you want the best of both worlds.

The 10 Must-Visit Wineries in Rioja

1. LA RIOJA ALTA

Founded: 1890

Iconic wines: 904 Gran Reserva, 890 Gran Reserva

Style: Classic, extended aging

Reason to visit: Quintessence of the traditional style, wines that age 50+ years

2. LÓPEZ DE HEREDIA

Founded: 1877

Iconic wines: Viña Tondonia, Viña Bosconia

Style: Extreme traditionalism, ancient methods

Reason to visit: An enological time capsule, wines ready 10-15 years after bottling

3. MARQUÉS DE RISCAL

Founded: 1858

Iconic wines: Reserva, Baron de Chirel

Style: Evolved classic, open to modern influences

Reason to visit: Living history, winery designed by Frank Gehry, great value for money

4. MUGA

Founded: 1932

Iconic wines: Prado Enea Gran Reserva, Torre Muga

Style: Classic, with a focus on freshness

Reason to visit: Uses only its own wood, barrels built in-house, top quality

5. CVNE (Compañía Vinícola del Norte de España)

Founded: 1879

Iconic wines: Imperial Gran Reserva, Viña Real

Style: Elegant classic

Reason to visit: Exceptional quality consistency, affordable prices

6. MARQUÉS DE MURRIETA

Founded: 1852

Iconic wines: Castillo Ygay Gran Reserva Especial

Style: Aristocratic traditional style

Reason to visit: One of the first historic wineries, monumental wines

7. REMÍREZ DE GANUZA

Founded: 1989

Iconic wines: Reserva, Trasnocho

Style: Modern concentrated style

Reason to visit: Technical innovation, parcel-by-parcel vinification

8. RODA

Founded: 1987

Iconic wines: Roda I Reserva, Cirsion

Style: Modern elegant style

Reason to visit: Old-vine Garnacha, a Burgundian style applied to Rioja

9. CONTINO

Founded: 1973

Iconic wines: Viña del Olivo, Graciano

Style: Single estate, focus su parcelle

Reason to visit: Elegance, extraordinary 100% Graciano

10. TELMO RODRÍGUEZ (Remelluri)

Founded: The 1990's (Remelluri is older)

Iconic wines: Lanzaga, Remelluri Reserva

Style: Natural, respect for the territory

Reason to visit: Minimal intervention philosophy, great personality

Rioja Blanco: The Best-Kept Secret

Only 10% of Rioja's production is white, but what whites! Based on Viura (Macabeo), often with Malvasía and Garnacha Blanca, whites can be:

JOVEN: Fresh, fruity, citrusy, perfect with seafood
CRIANZA / RESERVA: Barrel-aged, notes of hazelnut, butter, honey, significant structure

Must-try bottles.

López de Heredia Viña Tondonia Blanco Reserva: Legendary, oxidative

Marqués de Murrieta Capellanía Blanco Reserva: Elegance and complexity

CVNE Monopole: Fresh and mineral

Food Pairings

CRIANZA

Jamón ibérico

Chorizo and Spanish cured meats

Roast chicken

Aged cheeses (Manchego)

Pasta with a rich meat ragù

RESERVA

Chuletón (grilled ribeye steak)

Roast lamb

Braised beef

Blue cheeses

Porcini mushrooms

GRAN RESERVA

Game (venison, wild boar)

Red wine braised beef

Truffles

Mature premium cheeses

Meditation wine

BIANCHI CRIANZA

Bacalao al pil-pil (Cod in pil-pil sauce)

Mushroom risotto

Vitello tonnato (Veal with tuna sauce)

Fresh goat cheeses

Top Vintage

Legendary Vintages

2001: Exceptional, wines still young

2004: Great elegance and longevity

2005: Concentration and structure

2010: Classic, balanced, perfect

2016: Freshness and finesse

2017: Fresh and vibrant

2018: Warm but balanced

2019: Elegant and complex

Ready to Drink

2011, 2012, 2013: Gran Reserva pronte

Rioja vs Ribera del Duero vs Toscana

A quick comparison to understand Rioja's positioning:

Rioja offers elegance similar to Brunello, but with prices closer to a good Chianti Classico Riserva

How to Store and Serve

Temperatura:

Crianza: 16-17°C

Reserva: 17-18°C

Gran Reserva: 18°C

Decantazione:

Crianza: 30 minuti

Reserva: 1 ora

Gran Reserva: 1-2 ore (dipende dall’età)

Conservazione:

Temperatura costante 12-15°C

Umidità 70%

Buio assoluto

Bottiglie coricate

Aging potential:

Crianza: 5-10 years from the vintage

Reserva: 10-20 years

Gran Reserva: 20-40+ years

Pricing and Quality-Price Ratio:

One of the most extraordinary aspects of Rioja is the quality-price ratio:

€10-15: Crianza excellent (Marqués de Cáceres, Campo Viejo Reserva)
€15-25: Crianza premium e Reserva entry (Marqués de Riscal Reserva)
€25-40: Reserva wines from major wineries (Muga Reserva, CVNE Imperial)
€40-70: Iconic Gran Reservas (La Rioja Alta 904)
€70-150: Special Gran Reservas (López de Heredia Tondonia, Castillo Ygay)
€150+: Collector Bottles and Historic Vintages

Compare these prices with Barolo Riserva (€80-200), Brunello Riserva (€70-150), or Burgundy Premier Cru (€100-300). Rioja wins hands down.

Common Mistakes to Avoid

Drinking a Gran Reserva immediately after purchase: Always decant; it needs to aerate
Storing Crianza for decades: They are already approachable; drink them within 5-10 years
Thinking that 'older = better': A 2020 Crianza can be better than a 2015 Reserva if poorly stored.
Ignoring the whites: Rioja white Crianzas are hidden treasures
Buying only big names: There are excellent small producers at lower prices

Frequently Asked Questions (FAQ)

Q: Is Rioja Alta better than Rioja Alavesa?
A: No, they are different. Alta = elegance and structure, Alavesa = aromatics and finesse. It depends on your taste.

Q: Can I age a Crianza?
A: Yes, it improves for 5-10 years. Beyond that, you risk losing it.

Q: Is American oak inferior to French?
A: No, it’s different. American oak imparts sweetness and vanilla, while French oak imparts spice. It’s a matter of style.

Q: How much does a historic bottle cost?
A: A 1964 Gran Reserva 904 can cost €300-500. Still accessible for a 60-year-old wine.

Q: Which is better: Rioja or Priorat?
A: Rioja = elegance and tradition. Priorat = power and modernity. Two different philosophies.

Final Thoughts

Rioja is not just Spain’s most famous appellation. It is an entire universe of styles, terroirs, and traditions that deserves deep exploration. Whether you prefer the classical elegance of a López de Heredia or the modern concentration of a Remírez de Ganuza, here you will find wines that can compete with any great red in the world, yet at prices that truly allow you to explore them.

Coming soon, we will be hosting a Rioja producer who will share insights on the harvest, their winery’s philosophy, and what it truly means to make wine in this legendary land.

Have you explored Rioja wines yet? What’s your top pick? Drop a comment below!

Salud!

Box: 3 Bottles to Start

Budget: Marqués de Cáceres Crianza (€12) – Perfect for understanding the style
Quality: Marqués de Riscal Reserva (€20) – Accessible elegance
Experience: La Rioja Alta 904 Gran Reserva (€60) – Absolute legend

Rioja stands as the beating heart of Spanish winemaking, a land capable of moving every palate. A sincere thank you to all my readers for your support and curiosity. If you want to dive deeper into the most fascinating terroirs of the Iberian Peninsula, don’t miss the next updates here on the blog: our journey through the world of Spanish wine has only just begun!

“No ci pierdas la pista” –  

Mister Wine – Giovanni Scapolatiello – Sommelier Ais Italia